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Catalina Margulis

About Catalina Margulis

Baby Abroad is a collection of travel tips and tricks for jet-setters with kids, compiled by travel writer Catalina Margulis and based on her adventures with hubby Gord and baby Zach. Read her weekly reviews of innovative travel products, hot hotels, and fabulous family-friendly destinations, peppered with insights from her own journeys.

Tour: British Columbia

baby abroad canada (Oct.03.09)    


I’ve long coveted a trip to BC, but when the opportunity finally came, I was torn: Bring my baby on a business trip and compromise my experience there, or leave him at home and sentence his father and grandparents to five days of scrambling around to cover my absence. I opted to bring him along. It was tough travelling as a single parent—see my previous post for tips on how to—but the quality time together was gratifying. And then there are the beautiful BC vistas, of course, with their old-growth forests, ocean views and mountain backdrops.

After flying into Vancouver and picking up our rental car, we headed straight for the BCFerries terminal in Horseshoe Bay to catch our ride to the Langdale terminal on the Sunshine Coast. On our way, we passed Vancouver’s trendy Granville Street, Stanley Park and the Lion’s Gate Bridge, which had me wishing we had more time to spend checking out the city.

The ferry is super kid-friendly, with spacious, clean baby changing facilities and play rooms—not to mention a great cafeteria and work stations. It also offers spectacular views along the way, BUT do make sure you reserve your spot AND arrive plenty early, as wait times can vary. For most of our trips, getting on was a cinch. But for our trip between Horseshoe Bay and Nanaimo, not having a reservation landed us in a two-hour + line-up.

Once in Langdale, we headed straight for Rockwater Secret Cove Resort in Halfmoon Bay. It’s become THE spot for a romantic getaway, thanks to its ultra-romantic Tenthouse Suites, with their sexy soaker tubs, secluded verandas and waterfront views. We were understandably relegated to a spacious—albeit somewhat dated—family-friendly suite in the lodge, with separate living/dining room and bar—perfect for parents to escape to while their little one sleeps. (FYI: Families can also opt for the cute cabins, and co-owner Kevin Toth’s daughter is available to help with babysitting. None of our hotels had playpens or cribs when I checked during reservation time, so I brought our own. Don’t take it for granted that your hotel will have one—check ahead!)

We spent the following days exploring the neighbouring seaside towns of Sechelt and Gibsons, as well as the nearby Smuggler Cove Marine Park, where we imagined the rum runners of yore as we trekked through bogs and wetlands. Sechelt offers gorgeous views, especially from Magellan’s, an upscale yet informal family restaurant. (Try the drunken prawns.) Gibsons was super cute—keep an eye out for it in Zac Efron’s new movie with Kim Basinger, as they were rumoured to be filming while we were there. I loved the picturesque harbour (check out the slick Smitty’s Oyster House, pictured, while there) and funky shops and cafes (like The Black Bean Roasting Co.).

If you're in the area of Halfmoon Bay's Secret Cove Marina, don’t miss the delightful Upper Deck Café, which is more of a bistro. The delectable menu is  heavy on the fish and seafood, of course, and not exactly kid-friendly, even though the staff are. So when visiting (note that it’s only open from May to September), remember that it’s BYOBF (bring your own baby food). It's worth it.

Back in Horseshoe Bay, we caught the ferry to Nanaimo and Vancouver Island. We unloaded our bags in our family-friendly suite at the popular Tigh-Na-Mara Seaside Spa Resort in Parksville, known for its safe, sandy, warm-water beaches. Not only was our suite spacious, with a separate living/dining room, it also had a kitchen and amazing views of Rathtrevor Beach, which recedes almost a kilometre from the shoreline at low tide. Fortunately, thanks to a friend who joined me on the trip, I didn’t have to pass on the soothing Grotto Spa and mineral pool. (Though I later learned that the resort can provide guests with babysitters.)  We also had some fun family time at the Parksville Community Park playground.

On to Victoria, where we picked up our rental stroller from Wee Travel Baby Equipment Rentals. (They do deliver, for a charge.) It was great giving my back a rest from the baby carrier as we pushed the stroller along the city streets, checking out trendy LoJo’s (Lower Johnson Street) coffeehouses and shops featuring naturally made goods. We explored the First Nations artisanal offerings along the Inner Harbour, checked out the classic tea time at the grand Empress hotel and followed the aptly named Scenic Marine Drive past Beacon Hill Park.

For dinner, we booked a table at Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub & Restaurant, whose menu features almost 100 percent local product. Loved their microbrews and burger, though loved the chocolate shop upfront even more. After a long day of touring, we tucked in at the precious Villa Marco Polo Inn. A gorgeous, antique-laden mansion, it’s not exactly kid-friendly, though the owners made an exception for me. Sitting down to a single-seating, multi-course, gourmet breakfast with all the other guests the next morning, I was a little stressed about my misbehaving babe. As it turns out, most were parents and grandparents enjoying a little one-on-one time who couldn’t help themselves and chipped in distracting the little one as I grabbed bites for myself.

And then it was time for goodbyes—to my good friend and the gorgeous West Coast scenery. With so much to do and so little time to do it, we’ll be back again for sure.


 



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