Since Executive Chef Warren Geraghty gave us such great tips for buying fresh fish, we had to ask about the best way to prepare and cook it, too.
Is there a rule of thumb to go by when purchasing fish with bones? Any special way to remove them?
A general rule is that saltwater fish have larger bones, and freshwater fish have finer bones. So I typically bone a saltwater fish before cooking, whereas I would prepare a freshwater fish—say a trout or sole—on the bone and, once cooked, remove the skeleton in one easy motion. Normally, your fishmonger will be happy to fillet the fish for you. If the small pin bones are still in the fillet (you can request this from them, too) then you can use a small pair of needle-nose pliers to pull them out. Always pull them towards the head to remove them cleanly and easily.
I love using my barbecue in the summer, but am not quite sure how to cook fish on it. Any suggestions?
Heat your barbecue to medium hot. Making sure that your grill is absolutely clean, brush the grill with olive oil. This will prevent the delicate fish from sticking. Many people wrap their fish in tinfoil before grilling, which is a wasted exercise in my opinion, as it prevents the smoke from doing its job.
If you’re cooking a smaller whole fish such as a mackerel or snapper, I suggest cleaning the cavity and stuffing it with some fresh herbs, such as basil, thyme, and oregano, along with the zest of a lime or lemon. Lightly brush the skin of the fish with olive oil, season with a sprinkle of sea salt and good pepper, and score the flesh 3-4 times to ensure even cooking. Try to keep the fish at least 6-7 inches above the heat, dropping the lid to allow partial baking, and allow to cook gently on each side until its eyes turn opaque, indicating that the heat has reached its centre.
If you are cooking a nice supreme of fish such as spring salmon, season and lightly oil the skin side of the fish and cook skin side down. I like to squeeze some fresh lemon over the fish, then a sprinkle of sea salt and good pepper, allowing the wonderful mix of flavours from the fresh fish and the slight charcoal taste from the barbecue to dominate. A nice way to influence the flavour a little more is to add some scented wood chips, such as mesquite or cedar, to the coals.
Now that you know how to cook fresh fish, find out how to buy it.
Warren Geraghty has been the executive chef at West Restaurant in Vancouver, BC, since February 2008. He has been a fine dining chef in several establishments in both London and France.
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