The hairpin turns along the road through the Amalfi Coast are like none other. Picture rocky cliffs interspersed with charming villages and towns carved into the hillsides, and the sparkling blue waters of the Mediterranean hundreds of feet below. The only things better than the breathtaking scenery are the culinary pleasures on offer.
Where to Sleep
We decided to pamper ourselves at the famed Le Sirenuse hotel (doubles start at €350), a magnificent 18th-century palazzo spectacularly situated overlooking the town and the Bay of Positano. As if the gorgeous setting – antique furnishings, handmade tile floors, exquisite rooms with terraces – and outstanding service weren’t enough, the incredible food sealed the deal.
Where to Eat
The hotel’s complimentary breakfast buffet has it all, including fabulous Bufala mozzarella (made from the milk of the water buffalo), ricotta, smoked tuna, fresh tomatoes and arugula. For dinner, the hotel restaurant La Sponda is lit with 400 candles each night as chef Matthew Temperini dazzles with the finest of local offerings. Not a morsel was left of our John Dory fish poached in olive oil and lemon leaves (€40) and fresh caciotta cheese ravioli with marjoram(€32).
At Ristorante Donna Rosa, high in the mountains above Positano, the family-run eatery draws in devoted fans (including Jamie Oliver). We tried the Fantasy of Ravioli (€25 for two people) as well as a radicchio with provolone and eggplant with cherry tomatoes – so yummy we could barely keep ourselves from licking the plates.
What to Do
Don’t miss the old fishing town of Cetera, which is well known for anchovies and tuna. Traditional Amalfi specialties like fresh anchovies stuffed with mozzarella (€5) are a real treat at the convent-turned-restaurant Al Convento. Foodies should definitely stop by the local shops for colatura di alici, a traditional amber-coloured flavouring made from the free-run juice of salted anchovies (even just to say you tried it!).