Perfect in Portugal
the sweetspot.ca guide to portocanada
(Nov.26.11)
When it comes to Europe’s dreamiest destinations, we’ll always have Tuscany and Provence. But we recently discovered that the Northern Portuguese city of Porto has the history, the scenery, as well as the wine and the food to give the old standbys a run for their money. Dollar for dollar, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is also a wallet-friendly European option.
Where to Sleep:
Not only is the Hotel Teatro (from $132) close to everything, we loved the spacious rooms and designer décor — not to mention the included breakfasts.
On the other side of the river, The Yeatman (from $260) suits those looking for luxurious pampering and privacy. Each room opens onto a large private balcony for a dramatic and unobstructed view of Porto. Their Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa also offers unique treatments inspired by the region’s vineyards. Who could resist a purifying Merlot Wrap ($90)?
Where to Eat:
The quintessential aperitif is a glass of port, and we loved the casual lodge setting at Quevedo Port Wines (77 Rua de Santa Marinha) where we sipped a variety of vintages ($7/glass) while nibbling on beautiful olives and prosciutto ($4 each). For the oenophile, Wines of Portugal has a daily tasting of three regional wines from 11am to 7pm at Palacio da Bolsa (Rua Ferreira Borges).
We made sure to reserve a dinner table at Rui Paula’s DOP (18 Palacio das Artes Largo de S. Domingos) to sample the celebrated chef’s modern Portuguese fare (approx $55/person without wine). Simply outstanding.
Another night we settled in at Gosho (1277 Avenida da Boavista, inside the Hotel Porto Palacio) for a tasting menu (from $35) of mouth-watering Japanese fusion. The Grilled Beef Barrosã with salt grass is worth every euro!
For late night, we strolled over to Rua da Galeria de Paris and found Plan B set the right scene with good tunes and well-priced cocktails (from $3).
What to Do:
If you’re a culture vulture like us, you’ll want to start the day with an early morning trip to Mercado do Bolhão (Rua Sá da Bandeira, close to Bolhão metro station), which is especially vibrant on Saturday morning. After the market, drop in to Café Majestic and fuel up before exploring the city centre’s shops, churches and museums. J.K. Rowling fans will get a literary kick out of Livraria Lello (144 Rua das Carmelitas, near Praça dos Leões), the neo-gothic bookstore that’s said to have inspired the Harry Potter series.
Pick up a few inventive cork products (think pens, jewellery and even umbrellas) at Galo Louco (57 Rua Ferreira Borges) before hopping on a riverboat ($14) to cruise the Douro and see the six historic bridges.
Sweet Tip:
No trip to Northern Portugal would be complete without a road (or train) trip to another World Heritage Site— the Douro Valley. The scenery is full-stop stunning. Book a gorgeous room at Solar da Rede and spend a day or two touring and tasting what the region’s winemakers have to offer. Don’t miss taking in the views while lunching on the freshest seafood served at Rui Paula’s DOC.
Images:
Boats in Porto
Olives in Porto shop
Tasting room at Quevedo Port Wines
Hotel Teatro
Lunch at DOC
Douro Valley view