The hair dye aisle at the drugstore seems to be continuously expanding. How can I make sure I'm choosing the right product?
Jennifer M. emailed us at expert@sweetspot.ca, so we got Clairol Consulting Colourist, Luis Pacheco, to answer;
Permanent Dye
How it works: Opens up the cuticle, removes existing pigment and replaces it with artificial pigment (of desired tone); seals back the cuticle.
| Purpose/Result |
Why Use It |
Who Should Use It
|
- some ammonia and peroxide.
- covers grey permanently.
- lifts (lightens) and tones (up to 4 levels).
- lasts until hair grows out.
|
- to permanently cover grey.
- to achieve multiple levels of lift.
- to achieve permanent change in tonality.
|
- clients with more than 50% grey hair.
- clients who want to achieve a lighter tone.
- clients who are looking for permanent colour solutions.
|
Demi-Permanent Dye
How it works: Like a permanent colour, but with the cuticle opened only half as much as with permanent, therefore it is more gentle on hair. It also deposits artificial pigment.
Purpose/Result
|
Why Use It |
Who Should Use It |
- no ammonia, very low level of peroxide.
- 1/2 to 1 level of lift.
- lasts up to 20 shampoos.
- amplifies tone and adds natural dimension.
- fades gradually, washing out to the pre-existing tone.
- blends up to 50% of grey hair.
|
- to achieve darker, deeper and richer tones.
- to achieve tonality change.
|
- clients with less than 50% grey hair.
- clients looking for a more gentle colour solution.
- clients with more than 50% grey hair who are looking to blend the grey.
- clients who want to avoid visible colour demarcation as roots grow in.
|
Semi- Permanent Dye
How it works: Artificial pigment that simply sits on the outer layer of the hair cuticle.
Purpose/Result
|
Why Use It |
Who Should Use It |
- no ammonia, no peroxide.
- no level of lift/deposit only (cannot lighten colour).
- darkens and tones and adds shine.
- temporary.
- lasts 6-8 shampoos.
- blends up to 20% of grey hair.
|
- to achieve a temporary colour change.
- to counteract unwanted tones in colour, such as yellow in blonde hair.
- can be used to freshen up existing colour, whether coloured or natural.
|
- clients who want to try a colour change, before committing to it.
- clients who do not want to jeopardize the integrity of their hair whatsoever.
|
Gloss
| Purpose/Result |
Why Use It? |
Who Should Use it? |
- no ammonia, low level of developer.
- adds shine to hair.
- counteracts unwanted tones in hair.
- freshens existing colour.
- lasts up to 20 shampoos, or 3 - 4 weeks.
|
- to add extra shine and gloss.
- to freshen colour in between colour visits.
- to change hair colour tonality.
- can be used on coloured or non-coloured hair.
|
- clients looking for a tonal boost.
- clients looking for a quick colour refresher.
|
Luis Pacheco has been a colourist for 15 years, and recently joined Clairol as a Consulting Colourist. He worked as a Master Colourist in both Toronto and New York, before moving back here to open his own salon, Hair on the Avenue.
Thought that was sweet? You'll enjoy: