The Straight Stuff
ask an expert: haircanada
(Apr.02.10)
Photo: Dominique Charriau/WireImage
I've read a lot about Keratin hair treatments lately. What's the real story?
Jennifer H. emailed us at expert@sweetspot.ca, and SweetLife hair expert Greg May answered;
When I was asked a question regarding Keratin hair treatments, my first thought was one of uncertainty. I can tell you some of the pros and cons (as well as my personal opinions) on them.
There are different types of straightening techniques. Many people know about chemical straightening or relaxing, but often people are confused between Japanese (Yuko or Thermal Reconditioning) straightening, and Keratin treatments (also known as Coppola Keratin treatment, Keratin smoothing, Brazilian blow dry, Rejuvenol, Brazilian smoothing treatment etc.). The Japanese straightening makes your hair flat-iron straight and it won't hold a wave or curl. The Keratin treatment doesn't straighten your hair to that extent. It relaxes the wave or curl, and does not grow out, but rather fades away over time.
Pros
- Keratin treatments leave the hair with a glossy feel. It is believed the keratin actually makes the hair healthier over time.
- There is no line of demarcation as it grows out. Because it fades away as your hair grows, no one will notice that you need your roots done (it can also be reapplied without damage).
- Another great thing is Keratin treatments can lessen blow dry time.
Cons
- Hair needs to be coloured before the Keratin treatment.
- You will not be allowed to wash your hair (or wear a ponytail, use clips or scrunchies) for 24-96 hours after the service, while the keratin settles into the hair shaft.
- After the treatment, it is common that some colour fading will happen.
- Formaldehyde is used to push the keratin into the hair. When it is heated up to between 400-450° F, which you need to do for the treatments (when it's flat ironed into your hair) the fumes can become highly toxic. (Even the treatments which are said to be formaldehyde free contain aldehyde or a similar component which, when heated up, can still be toxic.)
Some Last Thoughts
- Do Keratin treatments in a very well-ventilated room. Both stylist and client should wear protective masks to protect against fumes. Mothers who are pregnant and/or nursing should avoid this procedure.
- Even though the Keratin treatment is good for the hair, leaving shine, less drying time, no regrowth, silky feel etc. I feel anyone who chooses this should do their homework. Read the ingredients and ask questions. Your health is far more important.
Greg May moved from his position as Creative Director at Holt Renfrew Salon to partner at Glo in 2000. He founded Greg May Hair Architects in 2003 and has since worked with a loyal clientele, who celebrate May's technical dedication and open and thoughtful approach to hair. You can follow Greg May on Twitter.
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