A tropical getaway to the Dominican Republic need not be shared with 900 guests at an all-inclusive resort. We skipped the tourist compounds and scoped out Puerto Plata beyond the guarded gates.
Where to Sleep:
Looking to be pampered? The Casa Colonial ($322-$855 per suite for two) is a boutique hotel along the Playa Dorada beach that features stately rooms, torch-lit dining and infinity pools overlooking the ocean. At the first sign of rain, we headed to the in-house Bagua Spa for the hot-and-cold massage ($136) and a customized facial ($160 and up). For a more rustic experience, check out the Tubagua Plantation Village Retreat ($50-$100 per person) sitting on 12 acres of private mountain property.
Where to Eat:
The Casa Colonial's Lucia ($40-$60 per person) restaurant offers inexpensive fine dining. The meal started with roasted cappuccino soup (delicious), followed by a plate of perfectly braised veal cheeks.
For a more casual meal, graze on sushi and grilled lobster at Al Fresco's ($18-$25, Calle Duarte at Av. 30 de Marzo, 809-320-1137) in the Playa Dorada Plaza. After dinner, enjoy some classic rock next door at Hemingway's Café ($15-$25, 809-320-2230). Café Cito Bar & Grill ($20-$40 per person) offers unpretentious, fresh, home-style cooking, the finest Dominican rums, and a world class (discounted) try-before-you-buy cigar bar.
What to Do:
Cabarete Beach gained its initial fame as a windsurfing and kiteboarding destination, it’s now packed with hard bodies, great restaurants, bars and souvenir stores. At night, the whole strip becomes a party zone. We spent the night in an over-sized lounge chair at Miró ($18-$40 per person, 809-853-6848) where we munched on the Deluxe 12-piece sushi platter ($23) and sipped fruity drinks.