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May Globus

About May Globus

Vancouver City Editor May Globus is obsessed with the sartorial and all that surrounds it: art, design, culture, music and film. Oh, and she really likes writing about it, too. A left coast girl at heart, her Sweetspot finds just might show why the westside really is the best side.

Island Time

the view from vancity: nanaimo by May Globus | Vancouver (Nov.10.10)    


"Island time" is a term most often associated with a tropical location, like Hawaii or Jamaica or even perhaps Fiji (if you make it that far).

It's a term that denotes a slow, languid way of life, a life devoid of rat races, of stress and of any adherence to set schedules (watches are more of an accessory, rather than a vessel of punctuality).

The west coast is surrounded by clusters of islands, some big and some small, and while I've visited Victoria, Sechelt, Tofino and Galliano, Nanaimo was an off-shore township on I hadn't yet set foot in, until last weekend.

Just shy of 90,000 friendly residents, Nanaimo sits on an edge of Vancouver Island, just a mere hour and a half drive from Victoria. As a city girl like myself would expect, life here is quieter and slower (despite new highrises like the Pacifica Development), but I was pleasantly surprised to find it not only quaint -- after all, the downtown strip is just three blocks long -- but also full of history (fun facts: Coast Salish natives were its first inhabitants, the city itself sits on a massive coal resource and, yes, it's where the nanaimo bar was born).

It only took me two days and two nights to love this little town, and here are some reasons why you just might, too. 

Harbour Air only takes 20 minutes. You depart Coal Harbour and land in Nanaimo in less than a half hour. Globe and Mail newspapers are on the Harbour Air house every day, so be sure to snag one in the lounge before takeoff. And don't pack too much, because you're only allowed 25 pounds of luggage weight on board. 

John Ruttan. The jolly mayor of Nanaimo is about the nicest person you'll ever meet. Seriously. When you come to this town, the chances of running into the mayor and having a good chat for more than ten minutes are pretty high. 

Cowichan Valley. Only 45 minutes away, there are wineries, wineries and more wineries, like Venturi-Schulze (the Brandenburg No. 3 is stellar), Vigneti Zanatta Winery and Vineyards (the restaurant's fish cakes beat out any others) and Averill Creek Vineyard (the estate is new and stunning, especially come summer).

There's also Stone Soup Inn, a two-bedroom bed & breakfast owned by former Bearfoot Bistro chef, Brock Windsor. For only $65, you can enjoy a five-course meal prepared personally by Windsor, with the freshest of local ingredients (for example, he picks mushrooms from the forest around his B&B). You don't even get a paper bill at meal's end, just a verbal announcement of the price, based on trust. The only warning I have here: don't approach those big turkeys in the farm shed for a closer look, because they'll chase you down the lane. True story.

Mon Petit Choux Cafe Bakery.This place is busy on a Sunday, but I've never had a more delicious soy vanilla latte in my life. I highly recommend the scrambled eggs with salmon, creme fraiche and brioche with rhubarb compote for breakfast -- those eggs are definitely free range.

Funk Your Fashion Ultra Hip Consignment. I spotted tons of cute second-hand tops and bags here, plus a gently-worn pair of black Uggs for only $90 (a total score for Uggs lovers).

Modern Cafe. The vibe here is alive, with folks of all ages coming together for nighttime food and fun. I'd go with the clam chowder, chock full of clams, potatoes and dill; the latter made for a surprisingly good flavour addition. But what really made me smile was the enthusiasm with which all patrons sang the birthday song when someone was celebrating another year. Birthday desserts are on the house here, and it's the only restaurant situation where I've seen one birthday girl go up to another birthday girl -- a complete stranger, mind you -- to give her a birthday hug. That's Nanaimo for you. 

Barton & Leier Gallery. An eclectic shop of hand-painted shelves and cabinets full of trinkets, stationary, accessories and art, this downtown gem is where to find gifts. I loved the teensy leather journals of handmade paper and a vintage typewriter that served as decor (sadly, there was no sale tag for this puppy). 

A Wee Cupcakery. Three words: nanaimo bar cupcake. Owner Medina Mayes opens shop, bakes exactly 200 cupcakes (all of which are concocted with the perfect amount of cake and icing) with a helper and then closes when all of them are gone. 

I'd say Vancouver Island time is time very well spent.










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