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Catalina Margulis

About Catalina Margulis

Baby Abroad is a collection of travel tips and tricks for jet-setters with kids, compiled by travel writer Catalina Margulis and based on her adventures with hubby Gord and baby Zach.

Tour: Coastal Massachusetts

baby abroad canada (Sep.19.09)    


President Obama is following me. Or rather, my baby. Maybe it started when Zach was born—the same night Obama won the election. (And totally not my fault, BTW—I was induced because he was late.) But just as our flights were booked and we were organizing our family trip to the Cape Cod area, we discovered all the hotels and restaurants were booked up on Martha’s Vineyard because of the president and his entourage. (Not to mention Chelsea Clinton’s rumoured wedding.) Thanks a lot.

Well, we went ahead with our trip regardless. Although it was only a day trip to Martha’s Vineyard because of said culprit. (Fortunately for us, our room in Boston was reserved long before Obama, Bush and Clinton followed us there to honour Senator Kennedy’s passing.) Presidents aside, here’s what we saw…and loved:

After picking up our hot red convertible Mini Cooper loaner (suh-weet!) just outside of Boston’s Logan airport, we hightailed it to the Cape, pausing for a lobster salad and glass of sangria at the Olde Salt House after falling under the spell of swish Cohasset. (The town where The Witches of Eastwick was shot, and which oozes East Coast prep with its beautiful mansions.) We checked into the Clarion on the main drag of Nantasket Beach in Hull to catch a little beach time. While there, we pigged out on fried seafood at popular local resto Jake’s, spied the vintage carousel on the strip and checked out the old Kennedy home.

From Hull we passed on to Plymouth and visited the famous rock there. (Yes, it is just a rock. But the town is adorable.) To make the most of our day at Martha’s Vineyard, we reserved a room at the family-friendly Shoreway Acres Resort Inn in Falmouth, just a short drive to the Island Queen ferry. (If you go, dinner at the delicious Bleu Restaurant in Mashpee Commons is worth the stress of eating out with baby. Go early so you can catch the shops while they’re open.)

There’s more to Martha’s Vineyard than I imagined. So many beaches! So many towns! I only wish we had more time to explore Edgartown, which gave off a St. Tropez-like upscale-beach town vibe though with a New England button-down twist. We also visited the Farm Institute, a camp where kids get to help grow veggies and tend to the animals. As well as Chappaquiddick (the site of the infamous Ted Kennedy incident, though it was on our itinerary and for other reasons long before his passing). Visitors come here to check out the Cape Poge lighthouse, Japanese garden as well as other tours like canoeing and kayaking on this mostly residential island.

Finally, we put the top down on the convertible and moved up the Cape Cod National Seashore, checking out the parks, beaches and dunes along the way. As most of the land is protected as conservation/preservation area, only Cahoons Hollow in Wellfleet has a beach bar/resto, though we found the spot a little windy. Herring Cove Beach, meanwhile, was just right, though it only had a concession stand. (Race Point Beach is also popular, but we were turned away because of water quality.) Besides Edgartown, my only other trip regret was missing more time in Provincetown, at the tip of the Cape. Though known for its largely gay population, it’s packed with cool boutiques and cafes, not to mention tourists and families.

We topped off our tour of the Cape with dinner in Chatham—another New England gem—at the grand dame though deceivingly humbly named Chatham Bars Inn. (We ate in the hotel’s Tavern, which was loud, casual and a little more family-friendly.) Families take note: At The Tern Inn in nearby West Harwich, cottages come with their own barbecues and patios.

Last stop: Boston. And just in time too, as the weather had started to turn. We spent a rainy Saturday exploring the Children’s Museum (which is actually an AWESOME indoor playground and education facility for all ages) and New England Aquarium—along with every other family in town. We stayed at the recently renovated Colonnade Hotel (though too bad we couldn’t enjoy the rooftop pool), and though I loved its contemporary chic, the windows—which could be opened from down low—had my child-proofing heart racing. We spent our last night—and fifth anniversary—noshing on divine salmon at the Liberty Hotel’s hep Clink resto. (Occupying the same building that once housed a jail.) Lucky for us, there was another jet-setting family catching the early bird special and making as much noise and mess as we were. Though if you want to play it safe, Legal Sea Foods is still a nice yet family-friendly resto, with salt-free fries for kids and fish-shaped cheese ravioli. Presidents not included.

For more info on the area, visit massvacation.com





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